Patagonia, El Chalten, and The Fitz Roy Area

Now that I have finished my trip to Argentina, I'd like to share some invaluable information with you, so unlike me, you'd not have the misfortune of losing five toenails. In the two months that I was there, I spent time in the south and the north. I went trekking in both regions. The north (desert and high elevation) is totally different from the south (glaciers); my treks differed greatly too. In the south, I was told by a friend to contact Fitzroy Expediciones, to talk to Diego, the contact person, about setting up a trek in the Fitz Roy Range. The information proved to be invaluable. The organization runs smoothly and the contact people speak English with an Argentine flair. You can choose the degree of difficulty of the trek. I didn't. Wanting a surprise, I allowed my friend to sign me up for one without asking too many questions. We went on the Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre Ice Trek. Although it's rated as moderately difficult, I found it very difficult because of my fear of heights. Well, I got over it. The trek had me wearing crampons crunching ice on a glacier. We also used harnesses and ropes to pull ourselves over a river. There was also climbing with two axes up an ice wall with a lot of trust put in the person holding onto the rope. I also enjoyed trekking through the fairytale-like forests. Fitz Roy Expediciones also provides more food than you need and tents. For accommodations, I'd recommend Hosteria El Puma, an affiliate of Fitzroy Expediciones. Stepping into the lobby, my instinct was to step back out, for it was as if I'd just stepped into someone's living room (http://www.elchalten.com/elpuma/adde.php)--perfectly cozy and warm. Paula, the person at the front desk is extremely helpful and friendly. If you are on a tight budget, however, Albergue Patagonia (Alpatagonia@infovia.com.ar) is an excellent alternative. The informal atmosphere and open kitchen is a good way to meet other travelers. As you may have suspected, the south is not where I lost my toenails. Not even after 50+ kilometers in three days. I lost them in the north with a tour leader who didn't know where he was going. Two-hour treks became six hours; four-hour treks became eight hours. And the trail had me sticking my feet in wet slippery mud a foot deep where horses, cows and dogs had been. You get the idea. I'll save that story for another time. For now, I strongly recommend the above and hope we'll hear some of your wonderful experiences in the coming months. Until next time, take care and keep traveling. For information on El Chalten http://www.elchalten.com