Senegal: C'est l'Afrique!

Posted Fri, 2006-08-18 10:38 by Nayeli
During my first few weeks in Senegal I came across a certain expression for which I've now developed an incredible fondness. It's the most useful phrase when something unexpected happens or people act inexplicably, or plans just go hopelessly and horribly awry. There's no need for an explanation or excuses.

"C'est l'Afrique!" will always sum up everything there is to say.

When children play tag with firecrackers, throwing orbs of flame at each other in the street, "C'est l'Afrique!"

When the post arrives but is torn to bits and pieces, "C'est l'Afrique!"

When a seemingly functioning spigot suddenly begins spurting dry rust, when your party shows up but is eight hours late, or when the same bus that always takes you to the beach one day drops you at the border crossing, it isn't long before you learn to smile, sit back and sigh, "C'est l'Afrique!"

No incident could have summed up this phenomenon more succinctly than the student grève.

One Monday morning my roommate Danielle returned home from teaching early and marched triumphantly through our front door, "The strangest thing just happened," she told me. "My school's just shut down for the holidays a week early. Students started throwing rocks at the building this morning, and when I got to the staff room they old me school was closed until next term."

C'est l'Afrique!

The notion of a student grève, or strike, wasn't that easy for me to swallow at first. I assumed Danielle's situation was isolated and finished preparing a vocabulary lesson for fifth graders. Tuesday morning began just as every morning does for me. I woke up early, took a cold shower and embarked on the 40 minute trek from my house to the neighboring town where I teach. It takes a fair amount to surprise me now that I've gotten used to the sights and sounds of the bustling African market through which I make my way to school. That morning however, I was caught off guard when I saw a fellow teacher also making his way through the market.

"Turn around," he said when he reached me, "We're going this way!" He indicated in the direction from which I was coming. Away from school.

"But it's-" I began.

"I know," he sighed with irritation. I wasn't getting it. "The students are on grève and we're missing three books from the 5eme class!" (Ironically, it was the second half of this phrase that seemed to be the greater cause for concern.) He explained that grève were a regularity in Senegalese schools and that the short vacation periods here are specifically planned with the expectation that the students will revolt, taking their holidays in advance and later prolonging them as long as possible.

Thus, Christmas vacation arrived a littl early for me this year.

Faced with a freed up schedule and an open ended afternoon I sought out a telecenter to share my latest African anecdote with the world. Unfortunately, despite it being Tuesday and working hours, the cyber cafe was locked. I found the owner several meters away, playing football in the street.

Ah... c'est l'Afrique!