Anniversary in Italy & France

A good friend and colleague recently asked for "anniversary in Italy/France" pointers, and I was only too happy to oblige. In fact, I gushed: "I'd be psyched to give you guys some suggestions, and, well, I'd also be happy to come along if you feel the need for a pocket translator slash food/wine taster! What better way to celebrate an anniversary than a third wheel?!?!"

Two days after sending him the email, still no response, so I guess that's a resounding "No, thanks." Anyway, I figured the thoughts might help out some of you as well. The circumstances are a little particular (visit Italy via France and build in a stay on Cápri, but maybe you'll find something helpful. Here's the email... As for Cápri (principle destinations are Anacápri, Marina Grande and Cápri town), I've never been. My instinct is that your timing would be perfect, early season (end of May through middle of June), so not yet packed. The island has a reputation for being overcrowded and overpriced, so an almost pre-season visit would be advantageous. But I'm getting ahead of myself. Let's start at the top and work our way down the map. I'll throw some ideas at you to help you scheme up the perfect trip and then you can get back to me for more dilated thoughts on anything that strikes you. Sound good? First of all, transportation. You said, "Can't do room bookings until we have dates nailed down for flights." Right. You also mentioned finding some of your best deals from Montreal. It sounds from your email like you're thinking of round tripping it to Paris? Or maybe just flying into Paris? Best flight prices will be Paris, Rome and Milan, and if you're thinking of a split ticket, then in to Paris and out of Rome or Milan seems like the obvious way to go. And Milan should have excess capacity by then (post winter Olympics) which means cheaper rates if you wanted to stay there for your final night. It's a great city, often overlooked by tourists.

Unfortunately the time of year you'll be traveling is the beginning of peak rates across the board, so getting good deals is going to require some serious research, and I suspect that an open or split ticket might be incredibly expensive. But you never know. Good rule of thumb is to search online on Saturday mornings. Early. Bummer, but it tends to be the best (and short lived) rates are offered when most would-be-travelers are still slumbering.

Other transportation ideas include taking the train from Paris to Rome (or Milan) as one leg of your trip. This is a beautiful trip and is quite comfortable, not at all like our dear Amtrak equivalent. You can even get rather posh sleeping accommodations rather like a hip boutique hotel. Or, rent a car. The drive from Paris to Naples is sublime. A couple of years ago, I drove from Rome to Paris "shotgun" in about a day a half. I followed the Italian coast up with a lunch stop along the cliffs to eat seafood high above the crashing surf near Pisa where I then spent a couple of hours exploring and snapping photos before getting back on the road and heading north then northwest then west. I stopped for dinner in Nice and then headed on up to Aix-en-Provence to spend the night at the Hotel Aquabella which adjoins Les Thermes Sextius famed natural thermal spa since the days of the Romans. Deep sleep followed by a morning "wet" massage (masseuse uses multiple shower heads streaming thermal water while massaging you!), and then I was on the road again for the final leg north to Paris. A long trip, to be sure, but quite do-able. Several days later I headed south again with a friend, but this time by a different route. We scooted east by southeast over to the Alps and then took the tunnel into Italy. (You come out in the region where much of the winter Olympics just took place.) We spent a night in Turin and continued East the following day, wandering through the agricultural regions in northern Piemonte, stopping anywhere that seemed interesting. We eventually made our way (fat and happy) to Bologna where we spent a couple of nights. Though perhaps not the most scenic city in Italy, Bologna is a university town in the best sense of the term, and boasts the best gastronomy of the entire country! Then we wandered south through the mountains to Naples where we spent several days exploring the city as well as Pompeii and Herculaneum before heading south along the legendary Amalfi coast.

Have I lost you yet? Italy has a way of distracting those who love her; she opens herself easily but once you let her in, she refuses to let you go. Fortunately she's one of the few (only?) mistresses most spouses will tolerate and even encourage. It sounds like Venice is probably not going to make the itinerary, but spectacular Florence could easily if you're driving. And Siena remains one of the most delightful cities to visit in Tuscany along with San Gimignano with it's charming towers, good wine and an excellent Etruscan restaurant. For some excellent suggestions, I suggest you read a couple of articles published by e-Margaux Italo-phile, Nancy DiDio: "Discovering Italy's Wine Towns" and "Exploring Italy by Train".

On to Rome! I lived in Rome off and on for about six months several years ago, and I can assure you that it is always more inviting and more intoxicating than you remember from your last trip. Although I'm sure you're at no loss for Roman things to do, places to eat, and accommodations, let me just throw out a few ideas if you are still open to influence. Accommodations are the best place to begin. Although I had an apartment when I lived in Rome, I've also spent plenty of time there as a tourist. From several luxurious options to a "bare bones" option, here are several suggestions:

Hotel Aldrovandi Palace (Leading Hotels Of The World) 15 Via Ulisse Aldrovandi This grand old hotel is magnificently situated just off of the Villa Borghese Park, and harkens back to the day of grand hotels. It's still location overshadows the sense that it may be slightly past its prime. Regina Hotel Baglioni via Vittorio Veneto 72 Situated on the legendary via Veneto in an elegant building dating back to the beginning of the last century, this stately establishment is a stone's throw from the Piazza Barberini, the Piazza di Spagna and the Piazza Navona. I've stayed here and recommend it confidently.

Hotel Art By The Spanish Steps Via Margutta 56 Boutique hotel boasting a unique fusion of modern design and original ecclesiastical architecture. Located in the center of Rome, close to the Spanish Steps, just 200 meters from the designer shops and boutiques of Via Condotti. Hip and trendy! The Inn at the Spanish Steps via Dei Condotti 85 This is a wonderful little hotel where I spent some time last spring. It is a Small Luxury Hotels of the World, but it is affordable and charming. Breakfast on the rooftop is a superb way to start your day. And the location can't be beat. The Beehive via Marghera, 8 At the most affordable end of the spectrum, a hostel/hotel/dorm that exceeds everyone's expectations. Opened and very successfully run by a young couple from California, the accommodations are tidy and cute, and the atmosphere is calm and agreeable. I've stayed here and recommend it with only one caveat: It's near the train station. For eating, you would be hard pressed to dine poorly in Rome. So long as you avoid the super touristy restaurants, you'll eat remarkably well regardless of the price tag. Bologna is supposed to be the culinary heart of Italy, and my experience corroborates the claim, but Rome may well be a close second or third. If you are interested in splashing out, two lavish and well-worth-it options are:

La Pergola (3 Michelin stars!) Note: Although located on the roof-top of the Rome Cavalieri Hilton, the world class food, wine and service make this place a "best of trip" dining option. Via Alberto Cadlolo 101 Tel. 06.35.09.20.55

Ristorante Camponeschi Piazza Farnese, 50 Tel. 06.87.49.27

Basically everywhere you turn in Rome, there is a local restaurant offering you sublime cuisine. (Check these additional suggestions for restaurants in Rome and restaurants/bars in Rome.) While in Rome, I lived in San Pietro, near the Vatican. There is little to recommend this area except for the obligatory visits to the Vatican and its museums. Before waiting in the unbearably long line to see the Sistine Chapel, read Marta Steele's article, "The Truth(?) About the Sistine Chapel". One of the nifty things to do for the energetic is to haul yourself up into the top of St. Peter's dome. This is a singularly magnificent view of Rome. And spend time in the Villa Borghese. Transcendent sculpture and not a bad "home" either! Wander the gardens. I spent many mornings jogging in this splendid park; there's no better place in Rome. Also, see Santa Maria Maggiore, especially if there's a music rehearsal or services coincident with your visit. And some superb crypts in this area too. Old mythric temples underground. In fact, ask your hotel about "Rome Underground" a reference often used to describe the various venues probing into the even more distant Roman past and waiting for your hungry eyes. A neat site near the Coliseum, though I forget the name. Located in the basement of an old church. And one last suggestion. No, two. First of all, you must wander through the Terme de Caracala and you must take an afternoon wandering along the old Appian Way. Quite simply, you must. Take a bus, take a taxi, rent a moped or bicycle. Just do it. A superb stroll. If the weather's nice, bring a picnic and eat among the tombs.

What important things have I neglected to mention? Basically just Cápri, I guess. As mentioned above, I've never been, mostly due to the accounts of "tourist saturation". (i.e. "Capri swarms with visitors but is so beautiful that a day there is by no means time squandered...") What I do know is that getting to Capri is best accomplished via ferry from Naples or Sorrento, and by the way, if you're heart is set on Cápri, you may also want to consider Ischia and Prócida which are both also accessible from Naples.

Another closing thought regarding flights between Paris and Rome/Milan/Naples would be Alitalia or a European low cost carrier like easyJet. An absolute "must use" website for everything to do with Rome (as well as Florence, Naples and Paris) is ContextTravel.com which was founded and is owned by Paul Bennett with whom I went to graduate school, and another interesting Italy website that you may find useful is BelliniTravel.com.